Roughly chop 20 ramps into small pieces and set them aside.

Use the large side of a box grater, grate 85 grams of gouda and 28 grams of parmesan onto a half sheet pan. Crumble on 113 grams of goat cheese. Grate 170 grams of butter onto the sheet pan as well. Pop this in the freezer while you prep the rest of the recipe.

Add the chilled butter and cheese into the flour. Mix, pressing with your fingers, until all the butter and cheeses are covered in flour. Press any large pieces into discs and mix until the mixture is crumbly but still cool.

Pour in 270 grams of buttermilk and mix first with a spatula, then switch to your hands to press it into a shaggy dough. It will feel a little dry, which is totally fine.

Move this to a lightly floured surface and press the dough together into a circle. Cut the dough in half with a bench scraper, put one piece of dough on top of the other and press, making a bunch of layers. Rotate 90° and repeat the process. Do this up to 5 times, but at least 4. Work quickly so the dough remains cool, and dust with flour to seal up any butter “pockets” that might pop out. Press the dough down until it is around 2 inches tall and the shape of a rectangle.

Wrap the dough in cling wrap. Use a rolling pin to gently roll it out into a tight rectangle that is 2 inches tall. Place this in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375°F convection.

When it’s time to bake, cut the dough into 8 pieces (I cut mine in a row of 4x2), and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.